
| Day Ten: Emerald Lake, Yoho and Banff National Parks |
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| Written by Drew Hannush | ||||||||||||||||
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One thing I have noticed about crossing the border into Canada, the smaller the outpost, the less questions you get. After gassing up the car in Kalispell, I made the journey north on US-93 to the Canadian border. When I reached the border I had my birth certificate and license ready to go. When I got there, I was asked a couple quick questions and shuttled through. One of the questions was about my Quebec license plate. I told him that I bought it while in Quebec a couple years before. No problem, have a nice day.
My plans for Canada actually were turned upside-down by the extra days I had acquired in the canceling of California and Nevada. The night of Day 10 was to be spent at Waterton Lakes, just across the border in Canada. The next night was to be at Lake Louise, Alberta, quite a distance north of the border. I didn't want to spend a whole day in the general vicinity of Kalispell and Glacier National Park, so I planned to drive to Lake Louise through British Columbia on Sunday and then return to Waterton Parks. The next day I would drive up the east side, possibly as far as Edmonton before returning to Lake Louise for the evening. As you will see, I do not recommend this type of planning if you are scheduling a trip to the Canadian Rockies. I stopped in Cranbrook, British Columbia to get some petrol and Canadian cash from the ATM. I took out $40 CAD for two days, it was more than enough. After putting some cash in my pocket, I found my mecca. Tim Horton's Coffee Shop...the Canadian equivalent to heaven. Okay, so maybe I'm over-doing it a bit. But as much as I love Cafe Mocha's, if there were a Tim Horton's next door, I'd go get coffee and a cake donut from Tim's.
I left Cranbrook and passed Fort Steele and Ta Ta Creek on my way up to Kootenay National Park. There is a vast wilderness, but there is humanity in this area. When you get to Radium Hot Springs, you'll find lodging and tourist traps, as usual. But these were not my destination. Instead I pressed on to the park. As I turned to make my way to the entrance gate, I found a Big Horn Sheep just waiting for me to take his picture. This animal was incredible, he had no problem standing totally still for my photo. When I arrived at the gate, I found it to be only $7 CAD per day for a pass that would let you into any Canadian Park. They asked me to plaster my receipt to the windshield and I was off. The first thing you do is drive through a drilled out portion of a rock mountain. Next, you ascend into the Rockies and then drop to a valley where you enjoy the British Colombia Rockies and on side and the Continental Divide on the other. This is where I finally made the discovery that the southern half of British Columbia and Alberta are partitioned by none other than the Continental Divide.
Just over the divide, you enter Alberta and Banff National Park. This is the weekend getaway for Calgarians and regional Albertans. The area has some incredible (I know I am over using that word, but I can't help it) rock facings and mountain shapes. I was closing in on my northern most destination, Lake Louise. Lake Louise is a glacial lake that specializes in a fantastic shade of turquoise if you have never seen a picture of it. I was very excited when I found my parking space and began walking toward the lake. And then...to my dismay. The lake was half covered in snow and ice. Well, what should I have expected? It was just June after all!
I made the best of it and tried to get some good shots of the log cabin and the crystal blue/green waters. The waters are green because of slit from the glaciers that coats the lakes. I did get some nice photos, but was disappointed I couldn't get the picture I wanted. I knew I would be back the next day, so I moved on toward Golden, British Columbia and Yoho National Park. I thought, maybe if I had time, I would try to get to Canada's Glacier National Park, but the day was wearing on. On the way through Yoho, I found a great river rapids (although they call them creeks up there). I also found a nice side route to Emerald Lake. To me, Emerald was closer to what I was expecting at Lake Louise. There was no snow to be seen, although the lake was further north than Louise. I wanted to get some good shots from a higher vantage point, but apparently a group had rented out the area and I was not able to climb the hill.
When I left, I passed Kicking Horse Falls and watched a glacial river as it continued to saw through a large piece of stone on the way down the falls. The scene was amazing. Again, it was too difficult to capture the feel in a photo. The area was just too wide and flowing to fit into my small lens. As I left Yoho, I realized I was in for a long drive back to Alberta and the afternoon was wearing on. I definitely wanted to get to Waterton Lakes for sunset. I began my journey south and spent the afternoon retracing my steps from the morning.
To tell you the truth, it was a little foggy and cloudy in the morning. The afternoon drive brought so many highlights out that I again had to stop for dozens pictures. Luckily I had downloaded my 100 or so pictures from the morning, while at Kicking Horse Park. The best part of the drive back came in watching the late afternoon sun on Columbia Lake, just south of Fairmont Hot Springs. Columbia Lake is the feeder lake for the famous Columbia River that channels down into Washington and Oregon. This lake rivals Flathead Lake in Montana for it's vast beauty. In many cases, it's more dramatic because you can see both sides of the lake from a single point.
As I plotted out the rest of my day, I had a decision to make. I was hungry and the town of Kimberley was ahead but on a side road to Cranbrook. I had heard that Kimberley had converted the town to a Bavarian village after her mining industry dried up. I was really in the mood for some good German food, so I decided to head that way. But the route took longer than expected and when I arrived in Kimberley, it didn't impress me as having that much of a German center to it. So I pulled into an old Bavarian favorite...the A&W restaurant (I am kidding of course, it's a well known fact, all Germans love only David Hasselhoff). I haven't been to an A&W in some time, and fatigue was catching up with me. I couldn't quite figure the menu out and just barked out...give me a #1 with a root beer. I had forgotten that I was to refuse any red meat while in Canada because of the Mad Cow scare. As I started to eat my hamburger, I started to feel a little worry.
When I made it to Clearbrook at 6:30 pm, I had another choice - do I gas up here or hope there is something ahead. I was at just under a half a tank. I labored on it for a few minutes and then turned the car around, resolute that I would not be caught without gasoline again. I would have been fine to go on, even though it was a Sunday night, for there were gas stations in both Sparwood and Fernie. The evening drive was also very pleasant, although I was starting to see things on the road that weren't there. At first I thought the Mad Cow was kicking in, but then I realized, I had been on the road for almost 14 hours and had another 2, at least, left to go. The drive over Crowsnest Pass was nice, but I began to get irritated with all the little towns I kept having to slow down for in Alberta. I was just ready to get out of the car. Once I reached Waterton Park, I suddenly revived. Call it a second wind, but when I saw the incredible Prince of Wales Hotel all lit up like a Christmas tree, it made me happy I had made it at twilight. Rather than rushing to my hotel, I spent about 20 minutes taking pictures of the Prince of Wales Hotel and the lakes - during every moment of light I could squeeze out. When I did arrive at Crandall Mountain Lodge, I was pleasantly surprised. It was a wonderful hotel with a very homey feel. I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area. > Day 11 |