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Day Eleven: Banff National Park, Waterton Lakes, Prince of Wales Hotel PDF Print E-mail
Written by Drew Hannush   

Why is the Mountain Time Zone so neglected? Have you ever noticed, when they say what time a program will air on television, it's Eastern, Central or Pacific Time, but never Mountain Time? I have a theory. Mountain Timer's asked to be left out because with all of this beauty, there is no time to watch television.

Just a theory.

Day 11 was a continuation of my Canadian leg of the trip. After 16 hours on the road on Sunday, I was beginning to doubt my ability to make it all the way to Edmonton and back around through Jasper National Park. So I decided to make the day a bit leisurely again.

Prince of Wales Hotel
Prince of Wales Hotel (Waterton Park,AB)

Something else that convinced me to slow down was the peaceful resort town of Waterton Lakes. I must say, I was surprised at how few tourists I saw around town. Lake Louise had been bustling the day before. The inn keeper at Crandall Mountain Lodge told me the place was still fairly hidden away, so traffic was light in the area.

I decided to ask where the best place was to photograph the Prince of Wales hotel. There were two areas I was instructed to. The first was by taking the trail up Crandall Mountain. The other was by the Warden's office, near the garbage dump. Well, I decided to go for a hike.

It was a brisk morning and the clouds were somewhat heavy. The sign on the path said it was an hour and a half walk, and that because of higher elevations, it should be taken with many rest stops for inexperienced hikers. That was me!

At first the incline was nominal. But as I reached the first resting bench, I found the incline becoming more severe. I was also disappointed to find, each time I would get to what seemed a good level for a picture, there was always a tree in the way of the shot. So, I continued to climb. When I reached a point about 500 feet above the parking lot, I cheated and moved off the path to get a photograph. I played with the aperture to get a better shot, but none of those pictures turned out.

Waterton Lakes National Park
The Beach (Waterton Lakes Ntl Park, AB)

When I descended the mountain, I decided to go by the park station, but it was closed. In a box outside the building I found a map to Waterton Park, so I got back in the car and began reading the map. For some reason I decided to look up and into my rear view mirror, and what did I see? A family of elk making their way through the parking lot, looking about as confused as I was. I slowly eased over for my camera and quietly opened the door. I leaned over the top of the driver's cab and snapped a couple of pictures.

The deer family finally made it to the foot of the trail and tentatively began moving up it. By this time, another traveler had stopped his car and spooked the animals up the hill.

Deer Waterton National Park
Do you remember where we parked the car? (Waterton Park, AB)

Since I was unsatisfied with the pictures I had taken on the mountain, I drove over to the Warden's Office and took a chance on that side road by the garbage dump. And, low and behold, there was the sight I had seen in all the photographs. The sight that drew me to want to visit this area. I clicked about 20 more pictures from different angles. I wanted to make sure I captured the moment as best I could. Although it was cloudier than I'd like, I am still happy with the photos I took.

Waterton Park is one of those places that can make an amateur photographer look like a seasoned pro. The place just screams Ansel Adams.

Prince of Wales Hotel Waterton Lake
Prince of Wales Hotel (Waterton Lake, AB)

It was hard to pull myself away to continue my day. I stopped in a local coffee shop for a bagel and cafe mocha. I talked with the girl there about the decor. The shop donned blues and jazz memorabilia. It was a cool touch. She said the owner of the building left those things for whatever business was moving in. We talked about my trip and how many animals I had seen on the way. As more customers came in, I made my way out the door for a few photographs of the town and then finally departed Waterton at about 10 am.

On my way to Calgary, I decided Edmonton was too ambitious. Especially after my late start. The only thing I was really interested in there was going to the West Edmonton Mall. Sorry Mall of America, but West Edmonton stands as the largest mall in North America. I had determined the trip would only be for bragging rights, not because I was so excited about seeing Canadian teenagers loitering and a glut of clothing shops.

Waterton Lakes
Waterton Lake (Waterton Lake NP, AB)

So when I reached Calgary, what did I do? I went to the mall! Overall, it was just your average mall, but it was good to get out and stretch my legs. I also found some good hockey jersey deals, but no teams I liked.

As I headed for Banff, I followed Provincial road 1A. This skirts alongside the Trans Canadian Highway and offers a slower drive and more animals than you can shake a stick at. Again, I saw many deer, sheep and elk. When I reached Lake Louise, I checked into the Deer Lodge. A rustic old lodge that had small rooms with no television or phone. But the rooms were quaint and the lodge had gathering areas for people to meet. The place was better suited to the traveler that wanted to stay a week in seclusion rather than the traveler looking for a single nights stay.

Game four of the Stanley Cup was on and I thought about going to the game room to watch it, but first I had to get some dinner.

There was a nice formal dining area, but I didn't want to sit at a table by myself so I pulled up a stool at the bar. The bartender poured me a local brew from the tap that had a very smooth taste to it, although it was a little more carbonated than I like. I asked him if he was upset he was missing the hockey game, but he said he was from Branford, Ontario and not a fan of either team in the finals. That kicked up a whole conversation about the Gretsky family, who are from Branford and their former minor league hockey team, the Smoke, who had moved to my hometown in Asheville, North Carolina.

Canadian Rockies Banff Alberta
Canadian Rockies (Banff, AB)

When I looked at the menu, I was taken aback slightly. The cheapest thing on the menu ran over $20. The menu was first class though. I asked the bartender if the elk was good. He said it was, but that the caribou was incredible. Well, it was $7 higher too, but...if you're gonna spend $28 on something good, what's wrong with $7 more bucks for something incredible. I ordered the caribou.

For those of you on a budget. I recommend the Deer Lodge for excellent food and a nice stay. But don't order the salad. It's $9. Your humble author unfortunately made that mistake. My total bill for dinner that night ran $75. Of course that is Canadian, so it was more like $50, but that was two days food budget for me. All in all, it was worth it though...to splurge one night.

The conversation was excellent and I spent some time talking to some folks from Los Angeles who came in to get desert. They were also voicing disappointment over the snow covered Lake Louise, but I suggested they try Emerald Lake the next day if they had time. When you are on one of these trips by yourself, it is always nice to find other travelers to relate to stories with. Everywhere I have traveled on my own, I have found some of my best tips through the advice of other travelers.

By 10 pm, I made my way upstairs to my room. If I was to make Bozeman, Montana on day 12, I would want to be well rested and get an early start.

It was still twilight when I went to bed.

> Day 12